Turf Talk – A Turf Newsletter

Turf Talk …. From Bill & Brandon                                                               fall edition – 2017

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Hi’s response to Lois makes us think that they live in the Piedmont.

We are all too familiar with this frustration. Every year in early to mid-spring, our excitement rises as we see our lawns turn lush, thick, and deep green.  Then the reality sets in by late July or August as it begins to look sparse, patchy, and filled with brown spots. While this can happen to any of our yards, it’s especially true with those without irrigation systems or with freshly sown yards.

As a landscape company, we wanted to examine this issue a little more closely. And what we found proves that the cartoon is correct! In March of 2017, LLA created three test plots at our office.

  • In the 1st one we installed a fescue sod with a well-established root system
  • The 2nd area was sowed with a blend of three fescue types.
  • In the 3rd area we planted Zoysia sod.

We watered the 3 plots regularly and all beds received the same treatments during the year. From mid-spring through mid-July, all 3 beds looks great – lush, healthy and deep green. But then the lingering effects of summer’s heat and humidity started to take its toll. And by now, late August, the proof is in the pictures.

When the heat of July and August hit us, the sod was able to establish a root system strong enough to get through the stress of high heat and humidity. Unfortunately, the plot sowed with fescue seeds was suffering by late summer. It simply had not been able to establish a deep rooting system to help sustain it. We’ll comment on the Zoysia below.

As you know, “Turf Grass” is a 4-year degree at most state universities. It may not be rocket science, but it is tricky.  We have learned a lot about it ourselves in our long careers dealing with turf grass and Mother Nature. Some key thoughts:

  1. In the Piedmont region of NC, we primarily use blended fescue – a cool season That means it does well in the cool seasons of fall, winter, and spring but it loses its vitality in the heat and humidity of summer.
  2. When fescue grass seeds are sowed in the fall, it has 3 seasons to (fall, winter, and spring) to become established – greatly improving its chances for survival. When it’s sowed in the spring, it’s much more difficult to get the root system established before going through the rigors of summer; some of it will survive certainly, but not all – even with an irrigation system. Installing sod definitely helps, but its costs are not for everyone.
  3. You cannot grow grass under trees that have top feeding root systems. These suck up too much of the available water – which is even less available in the summer. Examples are Maples, River Birch, Dogwoods, Beech trees
  4. As trees grow and expand their canopies, the root system expands – you’ll need to also expand the mowing ring.
  5. Shade is great for your home, but not for your turf. While there are decent seed blends that will handle partial shade, no grass does well in deep shade. If you see lots of moss, don’t think you’re going to get grass to grow.
  6. Air circulation is critical to the health of turf. That is why you see fans on golf courses to move air to prevent fungus from attacking turf greens.

That brings us to the 3rd test plot, planted with Zoysia sod. Zoysia, Bermuda and others are considered warm season grasses and are well adapted to hot humid weather.  However, since everything has a “catch” the big drawback of warm season grasses is that they turn brown soon after the first hard frost in the fall and remain that way until early spring.

As our long-term temperatures continue to rise and our seasons become less pronounced, we may have to alter the turf we have here in the Piedmont and use more of the “warm season grasses.”

Please call upon us to discuss the turf issues and options for your property. We want to help your grass thrive.

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Summer Turf Pests and Diseases

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Be on the Watch For Summer Pests and Diseases

Earlier this week we sent out an e-mail regarding some of the bigger turf threats for the summer. We wanted to replicate that information below as we feel it plays a crucial role in keeping lawns healthy through the toughest part of the summer. If you would like to subscribe to our monthly newsletter, click here.

Nutsedge can be one of the most troublesome weeds found in lawns and other plant beds. Unlike most weeds, it is not controlled with application of traditional grass or broadleaf herbicides and an outbreak of nutsedge can appear at any time and any place, including landscaped areas with woody ornamentals and perennials.

The active ingredient in the herbicide used to control nutsedge is absorbed into the leaf tissue within 24 to 48 hours and is translocated through the vascular system, interrupting amino acid production within the plant. It is recommended that the plant not be pulled out of the ground as the “nutlets,” or underground rhizomes, will be disturbed and can germinate into new plants.

A surfacant is required for maximum absorption and should be sprayed before outside temperatures reach 90 degrees, and is rainfast in four hours.

In cases of heavy infestation, it is recommended that a pre-emergent herbicide be applied. Spot treatment is preferred as opposed to blanket coverage.

Brown Patch is a fungal problem for our cool season grasses such as fescue and perennial rye, and it is the most damaging of all turf grass diseases.

It begins with late and lush spring growth and the arrival of heat and humidity, and is most active when temperatures reach 80-85 degrees and night air stays above 70 degrees.

Not only is this fungal disease airborne, it can also be spread by mowers, foot traffic, and animals. Late day rains and irrigation not having ample time to dry out only add to the spread of this disease.

If possible, increase light and air penetration or movement by pruning over-hanging tree limbs and shrubs. Mowing frequently may also help limit the spread of this disease.

Due to the high cost of herbicides used to treat these two common problems, most traditional lawn care programs do not include the treatment. Only after discovery and identification should treatment begin and continue until under control.

Also, if you see June bugs and Japanese beetles, watch out for grubs! These beetles lay their eggs in turf areas and the larval stage of the lifecycle causes severe damage to turf as they eat the roots of the grass. This insect should be treated as soon as possible after discovery.

If you have any questions about these turf issues or if you are seeing symptoms and would like to begin a treatment program, please give us a call at 336-765-6340.

Photo Credit: From our Pinterest board “Backyard Inspiration